Memorable Myanmar

May 17, 2014

Every trip has it's memorable places, events, people and things whether it's a new place or a place that we frequently visit. This time I want to talk about things that made an impression to me when I went to Myanmar. And here they are from touchdown to departure.

1. The tourists who put their money on a tea box. We save and keep our money in a variety of ways specially when we travel. I guess everyone has there own way but this by far was the most interesting way I've encountered.

2. The ride up and down Kyaiktiyo Pagoda. It was for real a joy ride. I'm not a stranger to unpaved roads but the speed and the way the drivers navigate the road scared me a bit or probably I've gone soft living in the city in recent years.

3. The food. I love Vietnamese food now however, I still miss the oily and spicy Indonesian food and it was a relief to find that Myanmar food is similar to it but  less spicy and oily. It was a treat for a few days to eat what I've been missing.

4. The Thanaka and Longyi. As I've mentioned on my previous post, everyone or most people in Myanmar have white powder put on their cheeks, arms and legs. Wearing their national costume, the longyi is still done and I think it is very charming. I've realized that we can change but we don't need to change everything to be modernized. There is a charm to the old ways and retaining some of our identity will keep our culture rich and not forgotten. Now that I've lived far from home for many years, I realized that there are a lot of things that are disappearing because we are all just looking for what is new but we don't try to learn the old ways. I hope the people of Myanmar embrace change but not forget their culture.

5. Bagan. The name itself is very grand. I've seen Angkor Wat and Borobudur but I love love Bagan. It's just so grand and beautiful. I guess the fact that we rode a horse cart going around the temples was also a factor that made the journey and the view very special. There are no words aside from majestic and amazing to describe the place. I cannot even imagine how it would look like from a helicopter ride.

6. The aerial view of the mountains and the plateau going to Inle. I don't know if the fields have any plants or if they are being prepared for planting but the view from the window of the plane is very pretty. It looked like a quilt with different colors. It was amazing.

7. The railroad track that we passed by from the airport on the way to Nyaung Shwe near Inle. It reminded me so much of the old days. It has this view that evokes lonely feelings of a long gone era when people ride train. I guess it feels like that since I've never experienced riding old trains but probably  for people of Myanmar it's a normal thing.

8. Inle Lake. It was amazing...amazing....So wide, clean. I want to visit again someday and I hope it will never change. The ride around was such an incredible experience.

9. The boy monk who asked for money from a couple that he toured around a temple ruin. I hope, people will not give these children money or else they will get use to it.

10. The painting. I was captivated with how the artist have painted the scene so alive. I've never seen such a painting that was so alive for me.It's a pity I  couldn't afford a 700 USD painting.

11. My lost camera. I feel bad but after sleeping on the plane. I just left my camera. It was the first electronic device I've bought from my first salary in Hanoi and it has helped me for both work and pleasure capture memories. I guess after almost 5 years, it's time to let it go. I hope the next owner will take care and use i well.

12. Taxi drivers. It was a relief that they can communicate in English and it was easy for us to go around with less worry about communication.

13. Getting left by our flight. Lesson learned, as advised get to the airport as early as possible.

14. Sleeping at the airport for the first time. It was uncomfortable, warm and very tiring. Once the flight started the next day, I slept until we arrived in Hanoi.

There you go. The good and the bad.

Myanmar- Day 9

Yangoon- February 3, 2014

It's the last day of our trip so we went around Chinatown early in the morning and packed our stuff before
heading to the shopping mall for lunch and to have my nails done. As usual, they charge higher since I am a foreigner. Mitchell wanted to buy a bag at around 3 when I was done with the cleaning but from another shopping mall so we went there. Unfortunately, the money changer was already closed at 4 and the banks don't have any money to change into kyats so she went further away just to change money. Eventually we bought the bag rushed back to the hotel to collect our bags and arrived at the airport. The worse thing happened, we we're late for check in so the staff did not allow us to get on board anymore. No matter how much we pleaded, it was of no use. Just because of the freaking bag. Now we've learned our lesson, as a tourist we need to have emergency money. Like what happened to us, the airline can provide us a change of flight but only going to Saigon. It was peak season so flights to Hanoi are fully booked. We had to pool our resources to go to another hotel for a night and to buy tickets going to Bangkok then to Hanoi. We had to sleep at the airport the next night because we arrived at 11 in the evening then our flight was 7 a.m the next morning. Thank God, budget airlines we're available or else our vacation would have been so ruined. Nevertheless, it was a fun holiday and the mistakes we made we're lessons learned. So next trip, we'll try to remember them and  plan our vacation well.

Myanmar- Day 7,8,9 and 10

Location: Our apartments living room (Le Van Luong)
Mood: sleepy since the weather is warm

February 1-4, 2014

It's early morning in Yangoon and we arrived after more than an eight hour bus ride. With aching limbs and hazy sight from lack of sleep, we got off form the bus to find a taxi to bring us to town. Of course after haggling again we finally got a taxi who took more passengers so there were four of us and the guy beside Mitchell was creepy since he kept looking at her..I mean really staring at her. So next time, better make sure that you are the only passengers in the taxi. Because we wanted to pay less, we ended up going around and with other people. We discovered that our hotel was really far from the bus station since it is in Chinatown. When we arrived, the room was nice and clean although it only had a window at the bathroom. After a few hours of rest we decided to visit the shopping malls of the city. There were only a few and the shopping mall has only three floors. I guess in a few years time, there would be a lot though just like how it is in Hanoi right now. In the evening, we were treated to a variety of dragon dance performances since they celebrated the Chinese New Year in front of our hotel. It was really my first time to see the dance as a whole and the performers were talented. I didn't know that it was hard to do the jumping on those poles with somebody at your back. I even saw one young performer cry because he couldn't do the jump several times. They were all amazing though since the acrobatics are hard.

Our room at Daw Htay hotel in Chinatown. It was good for it's price. I think we paid around 30 USD per night through Agoda. Way much better than the room in Kyaikthiyo which we paid for 75.

I'm not tall but these are the poles where the dragon dancers have to jump. It really takes a lot of skills and practice.

The streets of Yangoon's chinatown at 10 am...

Spectators waiting for the event to start. This is past 5 in the afternoon.

The drummers preparing for the performance.

The dancers doing their thing. It was my first time to really appreciate the beauty of this dance. I got to learn that there is a certain choreography and the best can do the difficult moves. It takes courage and skills to jump those poles and good chemistry with your partner to go through the whole sequence and not everyone can climb up to the highest one with grace and agility. The dancers are trully talented.

Beside a temple in Chinatown. There's even someone selling corn or the pigeons

Add caption

of course, one should not forget the beer. Honestly the taste is similar to SMB, Bia Hanoi, Beer Bintang of Indonesia, Lao beer and Cambodian beer.

The next day we decided to try the circular train. We went to the train station and inquired at the people in front. They directed us to the office and we paid 1.5 kyats for a three hour ride around the city. The pay is more expensive than the normal fare but we are seated in a special compartment but if you would like to join the crowd with their wares then it is also a good experience. It wasn't crowded and people just look but don't really bother. They try not to even sit down with foreigners except for some who are brave enough to initiate some conversation. Since the country only opened up recently, I guess the sight of foreigners is not very familiar yet.  A lot of infrastructures are swiftly covering up the landscape of the city but how people behave is not yet very modernize. I think, it is nice though since people are nice, accommodating. Not very friendly but at least they are nice when approached. 

We also visited the famed Scott Market where most of the wares from all parts of the country are sold. Of course haggling is still a must but for someone like me, I am not really good in getting cheap prices. Nevertheless, I'm still okay since we just bought a few things to remembers our visit and to give friends back in Hanoi. We only bought a few Longyi pronounced as Lonji..from what I've heard  and some trinkets. After a few hours at the market, we proceeded at 5 in the afternoon to the biggest pagoda in the city which is also believe to house the hair of Buddha. We followed the advice of other travellers to go to Shwedagon Pagoda late in the afternoon to enjoy the sight. It was really huge. We paid entrance fee then we proceeded to an elevator that will take us up to the pagoda. There were a lot of people inside, tourists and those who want to pray, monks as well and people taking care of the temple. We saw people cleaning, people praying, people taking pictures or just gazing at the temple. There were little sort of altars with some icon to represent each day of the week. Mitchell told me that those who are born for each particular day can pray on the specific spot. Wednesday has two though as I mentioned previously so people who are born in Wednesday should know if they were born in the morning or afternoon. I didn't know the specific day I was born so I didn't go and pray. It was disappointing though since inside the pagoda were ATM machines, it sort of make the place more of a commercial area than a sacred place. Anyway, the pagoda was amazing and even more magnificent at night with its gold color and the lights. And yeah, there was a beggar asking for money too but of course, we didn't give her. 

Myanmar- Day 6 (Inle)

Location: Saint Honore Bakery and cafe Xuan Dieu, Hanoi
Time: 1:25 pm
Mood: drinking cinnamon infused tea with Magnifique cake (very sweet) and listening to two friends chatting in korean beside my table. Hurray I can decipher around 30 percent of the conversation.

January 31, 2014

It's our last day in Inle so Mitch decided to give the pencils that she bought in Hanoi to a school near our hotel. She ventured out before breakfast to take pictures and she saw the school. After settling our bags we decided to go to the school. It turned out to be an Elementary school. We were directed by one parent to the teacher in charge and she was an energetic lady. Her English wasn't perfect but at least we were able to communicate to convey what we want. We went to her classroom which also doubled as the teachers room and it reminded us so much of our own class when we were young. It was shabby with a table cover just like the ones that are used for dining tables back home when we were young. The place is simple and most of the students and teachers came flocking to see us since we were speaking English although we don't look like foreigners. We were served with their traditional tea and asked about common English questions. Of course after a bit of a chit chat we gave the small gift. We were happy that they were happy to receive them. It might not be a big one but we hope as teachers that it will help the teachers and the children in learning. We bid them goodbye and we went back to the hostel to check out. After having lunch and  putting our bags at the  office where we booked bus seats back to Yangoon, we proceeded for lunch. After lunch we went to a museum. Of course we have to pay 5 kyats again for entrance. There was really nothing much inside and it is obviously not well taken cared of. The only interesting that I've seen so far was the big Bamboo Buddha, yes it was made of Bamboo but I was impressed. It doesn't look like any other Buddha, probably because it is made of bamboo or maybe because for me it looks more warm as compared to all the Buddhas I saw inside the stone temples. Whatever it is, it is so far an unforgettable Buddha for me.

The open jeep that we paid for 7 kyats that brought us and our luggage to the office where we booked our bus tickets.

The museum where the bamboo Buddha is staying. 

A traditional carriage in front of the museum.

After walking around we decided to go for a massage. We found this cute spa near a pond so we tried it out. It wasn't as good as the massage you get in Indonesia but at least it relieved us of some of the stress from the heat and the travel. The place was nice and the staff were very accommodating but the massage was not really in par to massage that I often had in Indonesia. Nevertheless, time passed by and we were already on the bus at 7 in the evening bound to Yangoon. We got sits at the back of the bus so it was bouncy but the temperature was good enough since it wasn't cold nor hot. We noticed everyone in the middle, covering up and fixing their aircon overhead. We slept for one or two hours in between getting awake but at least it was more comfortable than the bus we had when we were travelling from Luang Prabang to Vientianne a few years ago. Mitchell had the hardest time at that time since she had to sit with an old man who kept on farting for the duration of our 10 hour bus ride. At least for the trip from Inle to Yangoon, it was 8 hours and the sits were individual for us. It was tiring but it was cheap than taking a plane. I think we paid 21,000 kyats for the trip.

The little pond. The spa is on my left while the market is on my left side. It was a small town where the booking offices for the lake tours are located. 

Our bus, it is the preferred transportation for most tourists who are saving money. There are actually flights going back to Yangoon but it will cost you around 70 dollars or more while a bus only costs 20 dollars. 

Myanmar- Day 5 Continuation (Inle)

January 30, 2014

After going around the market, we proceeded for lunch. The guide/boatman brought us to a floating restaurant where you can view the incoming traffic. While waiting for the food, we realized that the place was strategically placed to see all the boats passing by. I can see that at that time at around 11 in the morning, almost all tourist passed to go to the silk village and the market. So we were ahead than most of the tourists. It's a good thing since we didn't need to be in a crowd and we were able to enjoy the places we visited without  a lot of people. Lunch was good and not cheap but not expensive too. It was also good that the boatmen were provided food. I guess its a part of the package that if they will bring people then they are also feed unlike in Bali where we had to buy food for our driver and guide.

The view from the restaurant where we had lunch. It was near the market that we previously visited.

Some tourist going back. They just probably book for a half day tour.

The village in front of the restaurant. They make silverware too. The boats are those that are bringing in the tourist for some shopping.

Boats coming at the same time.

After lunch, the guide took us to see a sapphire factory, the place where they make tobaccos and boats and a house with women who had neck rings weaving. Beside it was the place where they make umbrella made out of recycled paper. I was a bit interested with the sapphire since Myanmar is known to have good quality but I found it to be expensive and I am not very interested in jewelry. I did found the paper umbrellas interesting so I bought some for work purposes but then I found out later that it was much cheaper in town. Anyway, in some ways I just think of it as charity. We also took pictures with the women with neck rings. They are called Kayans.

She's making cigar

The skeleton of a boat that is being prepared to be build.

Ducks near a temple.

Kayan women...an old woman and a young girl. 

They were really pretty it was hard to choose.

I wanted to buy it so bad but I was thinking of how to drag it around since we were planning to take the train back to Yangoon and I was thinking it will be hard to bring it everywhere.

Our boat near the umbrella house.      

Since it was almost 5 in the afternoon and we only paid for eight hours we had to negotiate for more time to see the sunset. I think we paid five or ten more kyats for a 3 hour extension which I think was the best decision so far because we got to see a glimpse of everyday life. It was easy since the boatman can speak English well. We went on a smaller part of the river to a village with a different kind of temple ruins. We got to see children exactly when it was time for them to go home and a boy who accompanied us going up a hill near his house. There was a couple though and they were guided by a young monk who asked for money and the couple gave him. Its so sad that he is a monk yet he is learning devious ways of getting money. He even encouraged the boy who was with us to ask for money but I gave him a colorful pencil instead which I think he will find more useful. I hate to disappoint him but if they will get used to the money then it will not be good for them. I also saw this temple ruins which is totally different from what we've seen so far. And of course, I saw a painting of traditional woman who looks so alive. I fell in love with it but it's just so expensive. It was 700 USD..but until now I still remember it from memory. I wish I could have it and yeah there were a lot of painters and artists near the river. It was also nice to see everyone closing shops and getting on boats to go home at the end of the day. We went to a temple before finally going home and this girl approached our boatman to ask for a ride since they used bicycles and they want to go back by boat. It was okay with us but some people don't have any manners at all. They didn't even say hi or smiled when we got to the boat and when we got off not even a thank you or an acknowledgement. Huh! It is the rule that as a tourist, smile to others and say thank you. Western tourists are way more friendly than Asian tourists so far. Anyway, sunset was very pretty and it's an experience that is so amazing..

Children coming out from the school. They had those tin lunch boxes which is also the same as what we observed adults were carrying everywhere, like it's the national lunch box.

The unique ruins...

Our little guide

The painter of my much coveted painting, unfortunately the pic was inside. All the things at the background are copies and are the cheap stuff.

Two boys playing before going home.

The river traffic.

The river road.

Other tourists with their guide.

Sunset view from a temple.

Going back to town

We got back to the jetty by 7 evening very tired but happy with the tour. It's an experience I would like to do again in the future. We went for a cheap dinner that costs us only 3 kyats in a local restaurant. It was cheap but very satisfying with grilled chicken, salad and a beer.

At the end of the day, after appreciating the beauty of the place we got to learn a lot of things too. Number 1, it's easy to book the boat, you can even go to the river and bargain with the boatmen by yourself. Number 2 local restaurants are cheap and they can communicate in English so no problem at all.