Shiyay tan Shiman, Here and There: Kyaikhtiyo

January 26, 2014
Day 2- Sunday

We got up really early in the morning to buy the tickets for the bus and we we're assisted by one of the hotel staff. The office was really near to our hotel so the change of hotel the previous night had it's advantages. We paid 8,000 kyats (around 8 USD/ 350 pesos) for a 6 hour bus ride ( you can say, it was like Manila-Baguio). After boarding the bus which we thought will bring us directly near our destination. We we're informed that we have to change bus at a station. We we're anxious since the driver and the assistant couldn't speak English but upon arrival at the said station we we're just directed to another bus that wasn't ready yet. We got more anxious and I can see the Westerners ( I learned later they we're french) we're already nervous and keep asking the time. (Some people are really into following schedules). Well for us, when you're on vacation "Who cares about rushing about time". Looking around, it looked and felt like Dangwa Bus Station with the dirt road and all the chaos going around. Another 30 minutes and we we're on our way to Kyaikto which is where we will change buses again going up the mountain.

Along the way we're fields, ducks, people going about their business. We arrived at about 1 in the afternoon in Kyaikto where upon arrival we we're ushered to another bus station by one employee of the
bus company that we used. We opted not to go with it on the way back since there we're other bus companies offering cheaper prices and with air conditioned buses and yeah our bus wasn't air conditioned but it wasn't bad since it wasn't really very hot and not humid at all.

When we saw the mode of transportation, we we're amused and reminded of home. It is exactly the open trucks that our relatives in Buguias have and which we are used to riding already (they we're called elf back then because of the manufacturing company I guess). Only this time to make it a public transport, they put rows of benches at the back so it can carry a lot of people. It's 1,500 kyat and when we asked to ride upfront, they charged us with 3,000 kyat (3 USD/120 pesos). It was an hour ride up the mountain.It's suppose to be shorter but both going up and down had to take turns because of the sharp curves. On the way up, I'm glad they take turns since the curves are really sharp and the drivers are not exactly the type who cares if you will be thrown out of the truck. It was so much like the old Asin Road except it's cemented. I am thankful that I grew up riding those open trucks and passing unpaved roads that the survival skills came in handy. The view was awesome and we can see a glimpse of the golden rock on the way. I guess it would have been better at the back but since we need to be cautious on our trip, riding up front was also okay. It's so much like home, the people, the roads, the mountains but in a way so different. And yeah people are also chewing betel nuts so red splatters on the streets are very normal.

One of the trucks that serves as a public transport for tourists, pilgrims and those who live and work near the pilgrimage site.

When we arrived, there were a lot of people asking if we want them to carry our luggage. They have this bigger version of our traditional baskets (kayabang) where they put stuff to carry. Men and women work as porters to carry bags for tourists and pilgrims alike. We told our porter to bring us to our pre booked hotel but they told us it's 30 minutes away if we walk. I guess that is when they walk but for me I think it will take us 1 hour. I haven't practiced walking on rough terrain for years now. Even if I did when I was younger, it's pretty much different now. It's like telling me to walk going to Sowe,Atok but using the short way and not the road. I wanted to make sure the hotel was not really nearby, so we went to check the hotels near the pilgrimage site and to my dismay our hotel is really far down below the mountain. I got lazy and sacrificed 75 dollars for a change of hotel. When we went to our room, it was so much like the dormitories used in Catholic high school's at home (I mean those that I've visited). I don't know but me and my sister really had that feeling. So we just thought, it's just for a night. Just to have somewhere to sleep. So when we went outside, it feels like Sayangan, Atok. The ambiance, the scenery, the cool mountain air except this time we see monks, pilgrims and monks everywhere.

Monks going to the golden rock or Kyaiktiyo (Chaitiyo)

The view from our hotel. The rock is on the far left side. It is actually 5 minutes walk away. And this is why we think it looks like Sayangan.

Upon having our late lunch and early dinner at 4 pm, we decided to visit the rock. We went up the hill and we we're told to remove our footwear at the entrance. Along the way, we we're intercepted to go and pray on one side. I guess to get donations. Since I didn't know how to pray Buddhist style, I just walked in, looked around and the guide inside was motioning for me to put money in a rock then I can put my name card on a platter probably for good luck. He was talking in Myanmar language or probably Thai because when I dropped my name card. He read and looked surprised then that's the time he spoke in English. Probably all along, he thought I was Thai and along the way we heard "Swad-dee Kha" from random strangers. It is probably because we look more like Thai. So going further inside, it was disappointing to see a lot of people camped on the square near the rock. It looks more like a destination to visit than a holy sight. A lot of pilgrims go and sleep at the place and they cook and eat there so it has an ambiance of a picnic place for me rather than a place to go for religious reasons but of course everything depends on culture too. For me, it felt like people going to Manaoag Chuch but sleeping there for a night. Now that I think about it, it's the same as that. When I was young, I used to join those trips not for the religious aspect but more on the fact that I get to see another place. Probably it's also the same with the other visitors going to Kyaiktiyo.

We paid 6 dollars entrance fee. It is only for foreigners. The pass is for 2 days if I remember right.

The view from the restaurant where we ate. It really felt like one of the restaurants in Sayangan since it is built on the side of the mountain and yes there were also trash at the back of the building. It was funny how, we also went to another place and ate in another restaurant which also had the feel of Sayangan but that was in Bali, Indonesia. I guess the mountains have in a certain way, a kind of mood that is related to each other.

As we saw the rock, it was really incredible that it's not falling off since it is on the edge of the mountain and it's slightly slopping. Who knows, maybe, they put something to balance it. But for believers, it is really an incredible sight. In a way, there is also discrimination because only men are allowed to touch it. Women can only view it from another platform. As to why men can only touch it. I don't care. I only think that it is a beautiful sight. From what I overheard from a tour guide, the rock has a story as to why it ended up in that mountain. Some tourists have guides to explain the history but since we are on a budget, we just read before and during the tour. Internet is available so I see no reason not to research. So near the rock, there are a lot of pilgrims praying, tourists taking pictures and reading their guidebooks while looking at the rock. At night when the lights are on, it looks more amazing because of the gold color. As for my feelings, it doesn't look as incredible as when I read about it on the internet. I think what is more memorable is the ride up and down the hill. The next day when we went down, I had to literally climb up the truck through the wheels and get on as fast as I can since everything is chaotic. No falling in line and even if there are lines people just run as if they will be left behind. I am really thankful again for the training I had when we were young riding those trucks in Buguias. It came handy in Myanmar.

This is going up the mountain. At least the road is paved but still needs a lot of strength and skill to drive because it's steep and the curves are sharp.

The golden rock from the first view deck. You can clearly see many people. This was 5 in the afternoon.

The other side, I read that those bells are put by pilgrims to ask for luck or blessings I guess.

Me resting before going to visit and just enjoying the view of the mountains. Having lived in the city for the most part of my adult life, there were only a few times I can see mountains so I was living in that moment taking in the beauty of it. And yeah, I always miss the mountains. I promised myself, I will go back to our mountains dead or alive.

The square behind the golden rock where all the pilgrims are camped out for the night. I don't know if they have to pay anything. You can see families, monks, tourists everywhere.