Myanmar- Day 3 ( Bagan Sunset)

 January 28, 2014

There are really a lot of things to see and enjoy in Bagan that posting just one about it can't cover how truly amazing a day is there when you are in that place. As we continue visiting the temples, the afternoon is already late and we have to get to one of the best places to observe Bagan at sunset. So we set off and the things along the way that we see are really nice. I am not regretting the fact that we get to use the horse cart since the experience is totally different when you use a car. We use the off road and it felt like we were away from civilization. The shadows of the temples, the trees, the bushes, the hue of the sky, the many temples that you see from a distance fills me with the feeling that "ah this world is really beautiful". Words are not important, just feel and enjoy the sight and with that we proceeded to the top of the one of the highest temples. I keep saying wow! and then wow! It's awesome...

The road that our horse cart followed going to the place to watch the sunset

One of the two big Buddhas I've ever seen. One is in a park in Laos. This occupies the entire building where it is housed.
It is located at the base of the temple to observe the sunset.

The view after climbing how many stairs. We climbed the equivalent of a four story building. It was worth it with this view.

And I saw this girl on top. I wanted to ask her about the bag but I didn't want to disturb the excitement of looking at the view.

When the sun was setting.

Some members of a tribe which I think came to show themselves to the tourists

A monk taking pictures of the sunset

A young man in traditional garb

Sunset

When we got to the top. Everyone just brought all their gadgets to take a picture of the sunset and the surroundings. As for me, I took pictures but only some that satisfies me. I think that it is good to take pictures to see from time to time but it is also important to enjoy the beauty of the place. I am not about chasing sunsets because wherever you go, there is always a beautiful sunset to enjoy. So while waiting for the sun to finally disappear, I took the freedom to observe people. There we're actually a variety of tourists. I saw old people mostly Caucasians, a lot of Chinese speaking tourists, Chinese monks, Thai tourists who were all wearing white with their tour guide. Some middle aged couples, some backpackers and people who look like they haven't bathe in how many days. As for us, we are either from Myanmar, Thai or Chinese. The most memorable one though is this old guy who clearly has a fear of heights because he was shuffling on the innermost side of the walking area at the top. He was shaking and sweating while his wife was trying to hold his hand and asking him if he can make it while I was there sitting on the edge of the temple. It must have been pure hell for him but I admire his will to go up and try. I even tried to cheer him on while sitting cross legged on the edge. He must also think of me as very brave considering the fact that he was really struggling. The conclusion, I don't have any fear of heights. Maybe I can do Bungee jumping next time.

Myanmar- Day 3 (Bagan)

February 28, 2014

Since I couldn't cover everything on the previous post. I'm going to continue our first day in Bagan.
After visiting three temples, a souvenir shop with a woman with neck rings and one more temple. We decided to go for lunch. The restaurant looked clean and tourist friendly with good food and the prices
are not too expensive. It is also a relief that Myanmar food has similarities with Indonesian food and they serve good salad. At least I could eat something that I have been craving for a long time.

We finished lunch at 2 pm then we proceeded for another tour of temples which are actually different from each other. We also got to try the "Thanaka" put on our faces by a kind girl who also sold us some of it. The "thanaka" is a white powder that myanmar people put on their faces which they claim is a kind of cosmetic and to keep them cool in summer. And it's not only women who wore it but men as well. Sometimes, just on both cheeks and sometimes on the whole face. I even saw a teen girl whose probably not so keen on putting it on her face applied it on her legs. To be honest, I'm not sure about the health effect on the skin but I did felt it to be cooling under the heat while going around. So we kept it until we got home later in the evening and of course bought from the girl who showed as how to use it.

While going to the temples, the views on the top are magnificent. There was a girl who accompanied us and keep on selling postcards but I just gave her the chips that I was holding. Sometimes, you want to buy but once you buy from one person then everybody starts trailing you while you tour which is a bit annoying at times. We also met one Japanese girl who seems to be scared of trying out climbing some parts of the temple but brave enough to go around by herself by bicycle and two British tourists who actually live and work in Beijing. We asked them about the smog in Beijing and they told us that it was actually exaggerated on the news. They told us that it happens around twice or thrice a year but generally living there is good since they get to tour around Asia and live the way they want. I guess wherever you live, there are pros and cons.

Mitchell preparing her tripod and camera while I just used my Samsung Note II for this nice pic.

Most of the temples are dark inside so the guide usually have a torch to use so the paintings on the wall and ceilings can be seen. No lights policy are also important to lessen the erosion or destruction of the materials inside the temple. Our horse cart driver gave us a torch to use to see the inside of the smaller temples. For the bigger temples, electric lights were installed since the space are bigger to explore. As for me, the amazing part was the fact that the temple architectures are not all the same as shown by the pictures below.

One of the temples with birds resting around the dome

A replica of some  of the 2000 temples. 

The outside of a temple. 

I'm not really sure about these things but they were on display on a hall outside of one of the temples that we've visited.

Lunch 

Another kind of temple which reminds me of the Balinese temples

The outside wall of the temple above. It is different from the other temples that usually have straight  walls.

The Buddhas were outside the temple above. I think it is the only temple where the Buddhas are put outside.

The Thanaka that we put on our cheeks.

Irrawaddy River as viewed from a temple.


Yes, there's another temple near the river and there are cruises that will take you for a few hours or a day along the river. I just read that you won't see much anyway and since we only had 2 days to visit Bagan, I don't think we can do the cruise but maybe someday. Irrawaddy river is also famous for it's Irrawaddy dolphins.

One of the temples without entrance

The only white temple in Bagan. It looks more like a church for me and the architecture is very pretty. I actually took this atop another temple. You can go inside the temple but going up is not allowed to protect it from collapsing. These temples are thousand years old so they are very vulnerable to many things that could hasten their destruction. It is good that the government is doing what they can and tourist should also help preserve them for the coming generations to enjoy.  

Myanmar- Day 2 Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) and Bagan

January 27-28, 2014- Monday/Tuesday


After getting back to the city. We decided to head back to the airport to buy a ticket going to Bagan. We we're unlucky though since the airlines are fully booked so we decided to buy for the next day. A guy in charge of the taxi's in the Domestic entrance area offered to bring us to a hotel he knows. We didn't change the hotel anymore since it was already late in the afternoon and we need to be at the airport again at 5 in the morning. It was not a nice one though since we had to walk up till the fourth floor and I guess it's a motel since it's near a karaoke and to top it all the taxi driver who brought me again there from the shopping mall looks shocked to where I'm going. Anyway, it was  a bed to sleep after a day of travel by bus and looking for flights.

So the next day was off to Bagan. We arrived at around past 8 in the morning and it was such a quiet place to go. We had to pay 15 USD to enter the Cultural Zone. As usual, we had to negotiate for the fare going to our hotel. It was 8 dollars (8 kyats) by van. When we arrived, we were served breakfast and decided to start the day going around with a horse cart (20 kyats) for 8 hours. We saw the horse cart in front of the hotel so we hired him for the day.

I highly recommend the horse cart since they usually travel along footpaths without car traffic which makes the tour very much like travelling during the olden times. The journey is also slow that you can appreciate all the things that you pass. If you're taking pictures. It's the best way to go around since it gives you enough time to take pictures and enjoy the view as well. We visited a lot of temples and there were guys offering their paintings or painting they copied from the temples in various prices. The first temple offered as high as 15 kyats (15 dollars) but as we moved on to the other temples, there are others who are actually selling them just for 5 kyats. Although I hate being bothered by people selling stuff, I think it was nice because, these people actually serve as guides explaining the pictures and history of the temples before selling them. I actually feel bad for the boy who toured as around since he was selling stuff but I didn't really buy it because I thought I wouldn't need it. I should have bought it as a way of charity.

Regarding the temples, they were actually quite different from the temples in Borobodur and in Angkor Wat. Everyone has it's charm and uniqueness in them but I find the sheer size of Bagan amazing with 2000 temples even after the Earthquake that destroyed some and after almost a thousand years of being there watching over everything that happened for centuries. The size and the number of temples, the history of each temple and the beauty of it from the top of a temple is simply breathtaking.

Some of the Buddhas inside one temple, we were told that they are just restored Buddhas and not the original

 A bus in the main road. It reminded me so much of  old movies.

The first temple that we had visited. It's a closed temple. Basically temples are those that you can enter and cannot enter.

   
We also saw that some temples have images of Buddha and some don't have. They also had drawings on the walls. They mostly depict the days of the week and months of the year. Wednesday though has two since One is in the morning and one is for afternoon. I couldn't remember exactly why. The walls have drawings of animals too and of Buddha being born. It depicts that he was born on the hip much like how Aphrodite was born on Zeus head. I did learn also that since his mother died, he was taken cared by his stepmom and he walked just days after birth and lotus grew from where he stepped. That was cool.

Drawings inside one of the temples

One of the trees dotting the landscape amidst the temples

Marionettes for sale. Similar to Bali

Me against the light of the temple. I'm sure it would look more ethereal with white dress.

With the last picture taken. I wonder if years from now, they will take Bridal shots inside the temples and how commercialized would they evolve.

Kyaikhtiyo

January 26, 2014
Day 2- Sunday

We got up really early in the morning to buy the tickets for the bus and we we're assisted by one of the hotel staff. The office was really near to our hotel so the change of hotel the previous night had it's advantages. We paid 8,000 kyats (around 8 USD/  350 pesos) for a 6 hour bus ride ( you can say, it was like Manila-Baguio). After boarding the bus which we thought will bring us directly near our destination. We we're informed that we have to change bus at a station. We we're anxious since the driver and the assistant couldn't speak English but upon arrival at the said station we we're just directed to another bus that wasn't ready yet. We got more anxious and I can see the Westerners ( I learned later they we're french) we're already nervous and keep asking the time. (Some people are really into following schedules). Well for us, when you're on vacation "Who cares about rushing about time". Looking around, it looked and felt like Dangwa Bus Station with the dirt road and all the chaos going around. Another 30 minutes and we we're on our way to Kyaikto which is where we will change buses again going up the mountain.

Along the way we're fields, ducks, people going about their business. We arrived at about 1 in the afternoon in Kyaikto where upon arrival we we're ushered to another bus station by one employee of the
bus company that we used. We opted not to go with it on the way back since there we're other bus companies offering cheaper prices and with air conditioned buses and yeah our bus wasn't air conditioned but it wasn't bad since it wasn't really very hot and not humid at all.

When we saw the mode of transportation, we we're amused and reminded of home. It is exactly the open trucks that our relatives in Buguias have and which we are used to riding already (they we're called elf back then because of the manufacturing company I guess). Only this time to make it a public transport, they put rows of benches at the back so it can carry a lot of people. It's 1,500 kyat and when we asked to ride upfront, they charged us with 3,000 kyat (3 USD/120 pesos). It was an hour ride up the mountain.It's suppose to be shorter but both going up and down had to take turns because of the sharp curves. On the way up, I'm glad they take turns since the curves are really sharp and the drivers are not exactly the type who cares if you will be thrown out of the truck. It was so much like the old Asin Road except it's cemented. I am thankful that I grew up riding those open trucks and passing unpaved roads that the survival skills  came in handy. The view was awesome and we can see a glimpse of the golden rock on the way. I guess it would have been better at the back but since we need to be cautious on our trip, riding up front was also okay. It's so much like home, the people, the roads, the mountains but in a way so different. And yeah people are also chewing betel nuts so  red splatters on the streets are very normal.

   One of the trucks that serves as a public transport for tourists, pilgrims and those who live and work near the pilgrimage site.

When we arrived, there were a lot of people asking if we want them to carry our luggage. They have this bigger version of our traditional baskets (kayabang) where they put stuff to carry. Men and women work as porters to carry bags for tourists and pilgrims alike. We told our porter to bring us to our pre booked hotel but they told us it's 30 minutes away if we walk. I guess that is when they walk but for me I think it will take us 1 hour. I haven't practiced walking on rough terrain for years now. Even if I did when I was younger, it's pretty much different now. It's like telling me to walk going to Sowe,Atok but using the short way and not the road. I wanted to make sure the hotel was not really nearby, so we went to check the hotels near the pilgrimage site and to my dismay our hotel is really far down below the mountain. I got lazy and sacrificed 75 dollars for a change of hotel. When we went to our room, it was so much like the dormitories used in Catholic high school's at home (I mean those that I've visited). I don't know but me and my sister really had that feeling. So we just thought, it's just for a night. Just to have somewhere to sleep. So when we went outside, it feels like Sayangan, Atok. The ambiance, the scenery, the cool mountain air except this time we see monks, pilgrims and monks everywhere.

Monks going to the golden rock or Kyaiktiyo (Chaitiyo)

The view from our hotel. The rock is on the far left side. It is actually 5 minutes walk away. And this is why we think it looks like Sayangan.

Upon having our late lunch and early dinner at 4 pm, we decided to visit the rock. We went up the hill and we we're told to remove our footwear at the entrance. Along the way, we we're intercepted to go and pray on one side. I guess to get donations. Since I didn't know how to pray Buddhist style, I just walked in, looked around and the guide inside was motioning for me to put money in a rock then I can put my name card on a platter probably for good luck. He was talking in Myanmar language or probably Thai because when I dropped my name card. He read and looked surprised then that's the time he spoke in English. Probably all along, he thought I was Thai and along the way we heard  "Swad-dee Kha" from random strangers.  It is probably because we look more like Thai. So going further inside, it was disappointing to see a lot of people camped on the square near the rock. It looks more like a destination to visit than a holy sight. A lot of pilgrims go and sleep at the place and they cook and eat there so it has an ambiance of a picnic place for me rather than a place to go for religious reasons but of course everything depends on culture too. For me, it felt like people going to Manaoag Chuch but sleeping there for a night. Now that I think about it, it's the same as that. When I was young, I used to join those trips not for the religious aspect but more on the fact that I get to see another place. Probably it's also the same with the other visitors going to Kyaiktiyo. 

We paid 6 dollars entrance fee. It is only for foreigners. The pass is for 2 days if I remember right.

The view from the restaurant where we ate. It really felt like one of the restaurants in Sayangan since it is built on the side of the mountain and yes there were also trash at the back of the building. It was funny how, we also went to another place and ate in another restaurant which also had the feel of Sayangan but that was in Bali, Indonesia. I guess the mountains have in a certain way, a kind of mood that is related to each other.

As we saw the rock, it was really incredible that it's not falling off since it is on the edge of the mountain and it's slightly slopping. Who knows,  maybe, they put something to balance it. But for believers, it is really an incredible sight. In a way, there is also discrimination because only men are allowed to touch it. Women can only view it from another platform. As to why men can only touch it. I don't care. I only think that it is a beautiful sight. From what I overheard from a tour guide, the rock has a story as to why it ended up in that mountain. Some tourists have guides to explain the history but since we are on a budget, we just read before and during the tour. Internet is available so I see no reason not to research. So near the rock, there are a lot of pilgrims praying, tourists taking pictures and reading their guidebooks while looking at the rock. At night when the lights are on, it looks more amazing because of the gold color. As for my feelings, it doesn't look as incredible as when I read about it on the internet. I think what is more memorable is the ride up and down the hill. The next day when we went down, I had to literally climb up the truck through the wheels and get on as fast as I can since everything is chaotic. No falling in line and even if there are lines people just run as if they will be left behind. I am really thankful again for the training I had when we were young riding those trucks in Buguias. It came handy in Myanmar.

This is going up the mountain. At least the road is paved but still needs a lot of strength and skill to drive because it's steep and the curves are sharp.

The golden rock from the first view deck. You can clearly see many people. This was 5 in the afternoon.

The other side, I read that those bells are put by pilgrims to ask for luck or blessings I guess.

Me resting before going to visit and just enjoying the view of the mountains. Having lived in the city for the most part of my adult life, there were only a few times I can see mountains so I was living in that moment taking in the beauty of it. And yeah, I always miss the mountains. I promised myself, I will go back to our mountains dead or alive.

The square behind the golden rock where all the pilgrims are camped out for the night. I don't know if they have to pay anything. You can see families, monks, tourists everywhere.

I just found there that they also offer candles and pray.

The rock at night

The people in front of me on the truck when we went back to town.

The river along the road.

The bus stop. This is the restaurant.

A small store along the road.

Learning about Myanmar

January 25, 2014
Day 1

I was so excited for the trip that day. It was the start of a 9 day holiday.

So off to the airport at 1 pm then boarded the plane at exactly 40 minutes before the flight and the plane took off without much delay and waiting. It was as said by a fellow passenger the fastest boarding time in our history of flights.

Once we arrived, we took our time to walk at the right pace to enjoy our first time in Myanmar. Everything looks new and clean but there were a lot of mosquitoes at the airport. When we arrived at the immigration control, the women had this white patches on their cheeks  called Thanaka which I've learned later on that it is used as a cosmetic, for cooling and to prevent sunburn. We were given a 14 day tourist visa without paying anything upon arrival. I read that it was a new rule that just took effect on January 4, 2014.

Upon picking up our luggage, we went off to change money from USD to Kyat (pronounced as chats) our 100 USD was equivalent to 98,900. We we're amused to see this Caucasian couple took out their money from an empty box of tea. Talk of concealing your money from thieves. Not a bad idea. We then proceeded to look for taxi and we got one for 8 thousand kyats going to the hotel. Going out from the airport, we compared how it looked at bit like Bali and it was also warm. The streets were clean and obviously new but it was such a contrast with all the old buses and cars. I even saw full packed buses running fast tilting side to side. In a way, it reminds me of Manila buses.

Here's a pic of a taxi like the one we've taken on our first day.

So basically, all taxis are called city taxi and they don't used the meter system so you just have to show your destination and they will tell you the price and you can bargain for a lower price but as compared to Hanoi. I find it almost the same but of course sometimes a bit overpriced if you don't ask for a discount. Another thing is the fact that they don't use air conditioners even if it's the middle of the day and it's hot but since we didn't ask. I am not really sure. The price is way much better than the 1000 Baht that I paid when I first went to Bangkok. I was really ripped off at that time since I discovered that you only have to pay 250 baht from the airport. 

when we arrived at the hotel that I reserved through Agoda, I was surprised that the lights weren't on. We were then informed by the staff that there's a problem with electricity and so they got as to another hotel which took us another 30 minutes before arriving. The hotel was basic but the toilet is inside the room which is only separated by a glass. Some guests complained that it's like a jail which I agree but then just 1 night won't do any harm. Anyway, we asked the front desk staff and one guy agreed to help us buy a ticket early in the morning for our next destination. So off we went for our first dinner in Myanmar.

The food was very delicious partly because we were hungry and it is similar to Filipino food with all the oil...which I've missed since living in Hanoi but of course I also love the fact that they have vegetables (fresh and raw) which I love (something I came to learn to love to eat living in Hanoi) and because they also have a lot of fishes in their menu. It's something I missed too since I just don't like the river fish that is common in Hanoi. It has a smell and I don't really like how they cook it. They also had this circular in shape raw veggie that I tried. It was okay. It was served together with some boiled veggies (eggplant, radish etc.). It was also a bit strange to see a receipt in different writing. But the amount was there so it wasn't bad and yeah, some of the staff in the restaurant can speak good English so it was easy ordering food and paying. No hand movements for communication at all.