Myanmar- Day 2 Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) and Bagan

January 27-28, 2014- Monday/Tuesday


After getting back to the city. We decided to head back to the airport to buy a ticket going to Bagan. We we're unlucky though since the airlines are fully booked so we decided to buy for the next day. A guy in charge of the taxi's in the Domestic entrance area offered to bring us to a hotel he knows. We didn't change the hotel anymore since it was already late in the afternoon and we need to be at the airport again at 5 in the morning. It was not a nice one though since we had to walk up till the fourth floor and I guess it's a motel since it's near a karaoke and to top it all the taxi driver who brought me again there from the shopping mall looks shocked to where I'm going. Anyway, it was  a bed to sleep after a day of travel by bus and looking for flights.

So the next day was off to Bagan. We arrived at around past 8 in the morning and it was such a quiet place to go. We had to pay 15 USD to enter the Cultural Zone. As usual, we had to negotiate for the fare going to our hotel. It was 8 dollars (8 kyats) by van. When we arrived, we were served breakfast and decided to start the day going around with a horse cart (20 kyats) for 8 hours. We saw the horse cart in front of the hotel so we hired him for the day.

I highly recommend the horse cart since they usually travel along footpaths without car traffic which makes the tour very much like travelling during the olden times. The journey is also slow that you can appreciate all the things that you pass. If you're taking pictures. It's the best way to go around since it gives you enough time to take pictures and enjoy the view as well. We visited a lot of temples and there were guys offering their paintings or painting they copied from the temples in various prices. The first temple offered as high as 15 kyats (15 dollars) but as we moved on to the other temples, there are others who are actually selling them just for 5 kyats. Although I hate being bothered by people selling stuff, I think it was nice because, these people actually serve as guides explaining the pictures and history of the temples before selling them. I actually feel bad for the boy who toured as around since he was selling stuff but I didn't really buy it because I thought I wouldn't need it. I should have bought it as a way of charity.

Regarding the temples, they were actually quite different from the temples in Borobodur and in Angkor Wat. Everyone has it's charm and uniqueness in them but I find the sheer size of Bagan amazing with 2000 temples even after the Earthquake that destroyed some and after almost a thousand years of being there watching over everything that happened for centuries. The size and the number of temples, the history of each temple and the beauty of it from the top of a temple is simply breathtaking.

Some of the Buddhas inside one temple, we were told that they are just restored Buddhas and not the original

 A bus in the main road. It reminded me so much of  old movies.

The first temple that we had visited. It's a closed temple. Basically temples are those that you can enter and cannot enter.

   
We also saw that some temples have images of Buddha and some don't have. They also had drawings on the walls. They mostly depict the days of the week and months of the year. Wednesday though has two since One is in the morning and one is for afternoon. I couldn't remember exactly why. The walls have drawings of animals too and of Buddha being born. It depicts that he was born on the hip much like how Aphrodite was born on Zeus head. I did learn also that since his mother died, he was taken cared by his stepmom and he walked just days after birth and lotus grew from where he stepped. That was cool.

Drawings inside one of the temples

One of the trees dotting the landscape amidst the temples

Marionettes for sale. Similar to Bali

Me against the light of the temple. I'm sure it would look more ethereal with white dress.

With the last picture taken. I wonder if years from now, they will take Bridal shots inside the temples and how commercialized would they evolve.

Kyaikhtiyo

January 26, 2014
Day 2- Sunday

We got up really early in the morning to buy the tickets for the bus and we we're assisted by one of the hotel staff. The office was really near to our hotel so the change of hotel the previous night had it's advantages. We paid 8,000 kyats (around 8 USD/  350 pesos) for a 6 hour bus ride ( you can say, it was like Manila-Baguio). After boarding the bus which we thought will bring us directly near our destination. We we're informed that we have to change bus at a station. We we're anxious since the driver and the assistant couldn't speak English but upon arrival at the said station we we're just directed to another bus that wasn't ready yet. We got more anxious and I can see the Westerners ( I learned later they we're french) we're already nervous and keep asking the time. (Some people are really into following schedules). Well for us, when you're on vacation "Who cares about rushing about time". Looking around, it looked and felt like Dangwa Bus Station with the dirt road and all the chaos going around. Another 30 minutes and we we're on our way to Kyaikto which is where we will change buses again going up the mountain.

Along the way we're fields, ducks, people going about their business. We arrived at about 1 in the afternoon in Kyaikto where upon arrival we we're ushered to another bus station by one employee of the
bus company that we used. We opted not to go with it on the way back since there we're other bus companies offering cheaper prices and with air conditioned buses and yeah our bus wasn't air conditioned but it wasn't bad since it wasn't really very hot and not humid at all.

When we saw the mode of transportation, we we're amused and reminded of home. It is exactly the open trucks that our relatives in Buguias have and which we are used to riding already (they we're called elf back then because of the manufacturing company I guess). Only this time to make it a public transport, they put rows of benches at the back so it can carry a lot of people. It's 1,500 kyat and when we asked to ride upfront, they charged us with 3,000 kyat (3 USD/120 pesos). It was an hour ride up the mountain.It's suppose to be shorter but both going up and down had to take turns because of the sharp curves. On the way up, I'm glad they take turns since the curves are really sharp and the drivers are not exactly the type who cares if you will be thrown out of the truck. It was so much like the old Asin Road except it's cemented. I am thankful that I grew up riding those open trucks and passing unpaved roads that the survival skills  came in handy. The view was awesome and we can see a glimpse of the golden rock on the way. I guess it would have been better at the back but since we need to be cautious on our trip, riding up front was also okay. It's so much like home, the people, the roads, the mountains but in a way so different. And yeah people are also chewing betel nuts so  red splatters on the streets are very normal.

   One of the trucks that serves as a public transport for tourists, pilgrims and those who live and work near the pilgrimage site.

When we arrived, there were a lot of people asking if we want them to carry our luggage. They have this bigger version of our traditional baskets (kayabang) where they put stuff to carry. Men and women work as porters to carry bags for tourists and pilgrims alike. We told our porter to bring us to our pre booked hotel but they told us it's 30 minutes away if we walk. I guess that is when they walk but for me I think it will take us 1 hour. I haven't practiced walking on rough terrain for years now. Even if I did when I was younger, it's pretty much different now. It's like telling me to walk going to Sowe,Atok but using the short way and not the road. I wanted to make sure the hotel was not really nearby, so we went to check the hotels near the pilgrimage site and to my dismay our hotel is really far down below the mountain. I got lazy and sacrificed 75 dollars for a change of hotel. When we went to our room, it was so much like the dormitories used in Catholic high school's at home (I mean those that I've visited). I don't know but me and my sister really had that feeling. So we just thought, it's just for a night. Just to have somewhere to sleep. So when we went outside, it feels like Sayangan, Atok. The ambiance, the scenery, the cool mountain air except this time we see monks, pilgrims and monks everywhere.

Monks going to the golden rock or Kyaiktiyo (Chaitiyo)

The view from our hotel. The rock is on the far left side. It is actually 5 minutes walk away. And this is why we think it looks like Sayangan.

Upon having our late lunch and early dinner at 4 pm, we decided to visit the rock. We went up the hill and we we're told to remove our footwear at the entrance. Along the way, we we're intercepted to go and pray on one side. I guess to get donations. Since I didn't know how to pray Buddhist style, I just walked in, looked around and the guide inside was motioning for me to put money in a rock then I can put my name card on a platter probably for good luck. He was talking in Myanmar language or probably Thai because when I dropped my name card. He read and looked surprised then that's the time he spoke in English. Probably all along, he thought I was Thai and along the way we heard  "Swad-dee Kha" from random strangers.  It is probably because we look more like Thai. So going further inside, it was disappointing to see a lot of people camped on the square near the rock. It looks more like a destination to visit than a holy sight. A lot of pilgrims go and sleep at the place and they cook and eat there so it has an ambiance of a picnic place for me rather than a place to go for religious reasons but of course everything depends on culture too. For me, it felt like people going to Manaoag Chuch but sleeping there for a night. Now that I think about it, it's the same as that. When I was young, I used to join those trips not for the religious aspect but more on the fact that I get to see another place. Probably it's also the same with the other visitors going to Kyaiktiyo. 

We paid 6 dollars entrance fee. It is only for foreigners. The pass is for 2 days if I remember right.

The view from the restaurant where we ate. It really felt like one of the restaurants in Sayangan since it is built on the side of the mountain and yes there were also trash at the back of the building. It was funny how, we also went to another place and ate in another restaurant which also had the feel of Sayangan but that was in Bali, Indonesia. I guess the mountains have in a certain way, a kind of mood that is related to each other.

As we saw the rock, it was really incredible that it's not falling off since it is on the edge of the mountain and it's slightly slopping. Who knows,  maybe, they put something to balance it. But for believers, it is really an incredible sight. In a way, there is also discrimination because only men are allowed to touch it. Women can only view it from another platform. As to why men can only touch it. I don't care. I only think that it is a beautiful sight. From what I overheard from a tour guide, the rock has a story as to why it ended up in that mountain. Some tourists have guides to explain the history but since we are on a budget, we just read before and during the tour. Internet is available so I see no reason not to research. So near the rock, there are a lot of pilgrims praying, tourists taking pictures and reading their guidebooks while looking at the rock. At night when the lights are on, it looks more amazing because of the gold color. As for my feelings, it doesn't look as incredible as when I read about it on the internet. I think what is more memorable is the ride up and down the hill. The next day when we went down, I had to literally climb up the truck through the wheels and get on as fast as I can since everything is chaotic. No falling in line and even if there are lines people just run as if they will be left behind. I am really thankful again for the training I had when we were young riding those trucks in Buguias. It came handy in Myanmar.

This is going up the mountain. At least the road is paved but still needs a lot of strength and skill to drive because it's steep and the curves are sharp.

The golden rock from the first view deck. You can clearly see many people. This was 5 in the afternoon.

The other side, I read that those bells are put by pilgrims to ask for luck or blessings I guess.

Me resting before going to visit and just enjoying the view of the mountains. Having lived in the city for the most part of my adult life, there were only a few times I can see mountains so I was living in that moment taking in the beauty of it. And yeah, I always miss the mountains. I promised myself, I will go back to our mountains dead or alive.

The square behind the golden rock where all the pilgrims are camped out for the night. I don't know if they have to pay anything. You can see families, monks, tourists everywhere.

I just found there that they also offer candles and pray.

The rock at night

The people in front of me on the truck when we went back to town.

The river along the road.

The bus stop. This is the restaurant.

A small store along the road.

Learning about Myanmar

January 25, 2014
Day 1

I was so excited for the trip that day. It was the start of a 9 day holiday.

So off to the airport at 1 pm then boarded the plane at exactly 40 minutes before the flight and the plane took off without much delay and waiting. It was as said by a fellow passenger the fastest boarding time in our history of flights.

Once we arrived, we took our time to walk at the right pace to enjoy our first time in Myanmar. Everything looks new and clean but there were a lot of mosquitoes at the airport. When we arrived at the immigration control, the women had this white patches on their cheeks  called Thanaka which I've learned later on that it is used as a cosmetic, for cooling and to prevent sunburn. We were given a 14 day tourist visa without paying anything upon arrival. I read that it was a new rule that just took effect on January 4, 2014.

Upon picking up our luggage, we went off to change money from USD to Kyat (pronounced as chats) our 100 USD was equivalent to 98,900. We we're amused to see this Caucasian couple took out their money from an empty box of tea. Talk of concealing your money from thieves. Not a bad idea. We then proceeded to look for taxi and we got one for 8 thousand kyats going to the hotel. Going out from the airport, we compared how it looked at bit like Bali and it was also warm. The streets were clean and obviously new but it was such a contrast with all the old buses and cars. I even saw full packed buses running fast tilting side to side. In a way, it reminds me of Manila buses.

Here's a pic of a taxi like the one we've taken on our first day.

So basically, all taxis are called city taxi and they don't used the meter system so you just have to show your destination and they will tell you the price and you can bargain for a lower price but as compared to Hanoi. I find it almost the same but of course sometimes a bit overpriced if you don't ask for a discount. Another thing is the fact that they don't use air conditioners even if it's the middle of the day and it's hot but since we didn't ask. I am not really sure. The price is way much better than the 1000 Baht that I paid when I first went to Bangkok. I was really ripped off at that time since I discovered that you only have to pay 250 baht from the airport. 

when we arrived at the hotel that I reserved through Agoda, I was surprised that the lights weren't on. We were then informed by the staff that there's a problem with electricity and so they got as to another hotel which took us another 30 minutes before arriving. The hotel was basic but the toilet is inside the room which is only separated by a glass. Some guests complained that it's like a jail which I agree but then just 1 night won't do any harm. Anyway, we asked the front desk staff and one guy agreed to help us buy a ticket early in the morning for our next destination. So off we went for our first dinner in Myanmar.

The food was very delicious partly because we were hungry and it is similar to Filipino food with all the oil...which I've missed since living in Hanoi but of course I also love the fact that they have vegetables (fresh and raw) which I love (something I came to learn to love to eat living in Hanoi) and because they also have a lot of fishes in their menu. It's something I missed too since I just don't like the river fish that is common in Hanoi. It has a smell and I don't really like how they cook it. They also had this circular in shape raw veggie that I tried. It was okay. It was served together with some boiled veggies (eggplant, radish etc.). It was also a bit strange to see a receipt in different writing. But the amount was there so it wasn't bad and yeah, some of the staff in the restaurant can speak good English so it was easy ordering food and paying. No hand movements for communication at all. 

After two years

The tourist is back in Hanoi...longer this time

This time the city has changed so much....new shopping malls.....the fly overs.....traffic lights are actually working and there are actually overpass for pedestrians to save us from the horror of crossing streets fearing for our lives. And (wistful) my side of the city has actually became much busier. The abundance of eating places to choose from is very good but  hearing so much noise from the traffic and of course the traffic jam during rush hours is not comforting though.

And of course the tour guide again.... in between Westlake and Truc Bach Lake going to Sofitel Plaza

The newest mall in the city and the favorite hangout for both new and old timers in the city at the moment

Visiting the Den Quan Thanh temple

and of course a beautiful view of the lake and the road....

And the sunset

And Hanoi Cathedral...It was actually my first time to visit the church too...

orimaneyo....

It' s been awhile.....Need to activate the mood again...
So busy nowadays...
More work and more extra work...
I need to work hard for that Samsung S4 I'm craving for...

Day 4- Ton Le Sap lake

By the time we finished admiring all the animals in the zoo, it was already time for lunch. We were looking for a place to eat but our guide brought us to a temple instead. It was our first temple visit in Cambodia but we were not excited to explore since it was midday and warm. Besides we were also hungry. They told us some introduction about the temple but I wasn't really paying much attention then because of the hunger pangs I was feeling. The temple was small and if you are going to visit Angkor Wat then it is better to remove it from the itinerary when exploring Cambodia. Anyways, we took some good pictures before we proceeded to our next destination.

                                               One of the wall carvings in front of the temple

 The inside of the temple and one rule when visiting temples, guests should be properly covered. No short pants and sleeveless shirts. Well, they were not so strict with these ladies but at least they were decent enough to go inside. And yes there were children following us the whole time.

The temple from the outside. The backpackers taking a commemorative shot.

Then off we went for lunch which we were so glad. By that time, it was already almost 2 in the afternoon. What came to our view was this.

You might be wondering, what are those? Those are huts beside Ton Le Sap lake or better yet over the lake and they are used as dining areas for tourists. We didn't see much Westerners but we don't know if there were other Asians like us. While everyone were fixing things and visiting the toilet, I went to our hut. Boy, It totally reminds me of Hanoi where they have this floating club by the river which you can reach walking through planks of wood joined together and this is even much more scary since it was just one plank of wood with just sticks to grab and steady people walking. I'm sure the water or mud is not deep. I just cannot take the idea of getting myself dirty if I ever fall. Anyway, it was a good balance exercise for someone who's starving.

The plank going to the "VIP room..." Upon reaching the hut, I wasn't comfortable the whole time since I was afraid that it would just disintegrate or it won't be able to carry our combined weights. It wasn't helping also that neighboring hut guests were testosterone filled teenagers out on a picnic and were jumping and playing around. It wasn't my best lunch during that particular holiday.

A part of our lunch menu

Not a part of our menu but one of the delicacies sold around the lake.

 

A boatman with his goods for sale going around the lake.

Much as I liked the entire experience that day, I wouldn't recommend it for other tourists. If you had visited zoo's in other places, it is better to forgo visiting Ta Mao Zoo. The only interesting thing for me were the sun bears aside from that, the other animals can also be seen in other places. As for the temple, if you are visiting Angkor Wat, better skip the temple near the zoo. It is the same as the others besides, there are also temples in Phnom Penh and for the lake, I wouldn't recommend it either. I think we overpaid the lunch. We had one whole chicken, one whole fish, one serving of beef , soda and rice for seven people and we paid 50 dollars which I think is a bit overpriced. Besides that, there was nothing to see in the lake but water. No breathtaking view whatsoever. So, it was just another day to see the sights outside of the city.

Back in the city after the tour, while waiting for Mitchell and Effa visit a temple, we saw this tree with bats. It was almost dusk so I guess they were starting to get ready for the night.

Day 4- The Zoo

That day, we woke early since we will be going somewhere far from the city. Our guide, the helpful Mr. Alex actually arranged a van for us to use to make the trip much more comfortable and faster. I got breakfast from Cafe Fresco with Effa and wow! the breakfast set is 6 USD excluding my cappuccino.. Even so, I still ordered a  healthy breakfast of mixed fruits. With the prices we were paying for meals, we started really feeling at that time that Cambodia is expensive for tourists.

Anyway, everyone piled up on the van and we got to meet another member of Mr. Alex's family, the driver  who happens to be his brother too. He was too talkative for my own liking but I guess he is just fine for the other girls.Halfway through the ride, the girls at the back were sleepy but the mood suddenly turned partyish when we discovered this field of lotus and the driver opened the top of the van. Everyone had a blast shouting and greeting people along the road.

                We got lucky to have a car like this. It was so much fun riding through the countryside.

As we approached the foot of the mountain leading to the zoo, we were surprised to see this long line of people begging. The guide explained about poverty in the countryside which led to people turning beggars to earn a living. Most of them are old people and some children. I think, families also use them to appeal more to tourists since they look so much more pitiful. From being cheerful, the five of us became silent as we passed the stretch of people begging along the road. It was like a kilometer of beggars just a few meters apart.

 

   The long line of beggars. After living in third world countries my entire life, I have never seen such display of  poverty. Even when Baguio was hit by an earthquake in 1990, at least people tried their best to survive and did not turned to begging. It is still a memory that is disturbing to me.

So, we got in Ta Mao Zoo and it is a mountain with cages. I wasn't really expecting something very good but it is obviously new and needs a lot of funding to fully operate better. As someone who saw Taman Safari in Indonesia where animals are left to roam free, I feel it would be better if the animals are also let out of the cages but  I guess it would cost a lot. The impressive thing though about  Ta Mao Zoo is that the animals are all from Cambodia and nothing is taken overseas. We had fun checking out the animals at the zoo and there was this one incident where me, Ritchell and Nikki were checking out the monkeys on one cage. I noticed that one was swinging happily on a tire and I noticed it's shit coming out. With just one scream to the other girls, we were away from the cage in a matter of seconds. Who knows we could be the recipients of a "flying shit" and I don't want to remember Cambodia as somewhere I got hit by a monkey poo.

   The sun bears. There were signs not to feed them but sometimes I don't understand people why they just need to do the opposite. They are small bears not as we expect of bears and according to Google, they are the smallest bears. The shape on its chest is really beautiful. It is another work of art by nature.

     It is the smallest kind of monkey in that zoo that I had seen. I was disappointed though because they snubbed the banana that I was giving them. I guess they were so tired of bananas all the time. This one was happier to munch on the sugar cane.

  One of the beavers in the zoo. They were bathing at that time when we passed by their cage. Beside was the tigers cage. Talk about unlikely neighbors.

                               The other tiger was hidden out of view. Chilling under the midday sun.

                        Another kind of monkey. I was giving the banana but it ignored me again.

        It was also fun feeding the elephants. They love the sugar cane. We didn't had anything else anyway.

                 I don't know exactly what is this but it was one of the hundreds of birds in the zoo.

                                   Ah..the lovely parrot...there were probably fifty or more of them.

                 The poor owl had one eye missing. They should probably put an eye patch over the bad eye.

              There were at least monkeys roaming free around the zoo on our way out. There are I think a hundred or more of monkeys in Ta Mao Zoo.

It was really fun having to go to the zoo without having to drag children or children dragging me around. I hope that the zoo will improve the next time if I will ever visit it again.